I visited Ren and Ishikawa in 2016, the experience was exceptional. Since then I have always looked forward to visit Kohaku. Due to the popularity of the establishment, and no travel during 3 years of COVID, there was no chance at all.
All of a sudden there was availability at Kohaku in 4 days, I immediately confirmed and booked a flight to Tokyo, making a dedicated trip just for Kohaku.
The exterior of the shop looked exactly the same as when I passed by 7 years ago, so no problem to locate it at all.
Appetizer is shredded melon and caviar in light creamy sauce. The refreshing and deep flavour wash away the heat of summer and gets you ready for the feast.
Then comes the deep fried Ayu fish in creamy mushroom soup. The umami and silkiness of the soup matches perfectly with the lighly crunchy Ayu with deep savory flavour.
You can learn a lot about a Japanese restaurant from the quality of it's soup. Needless to say Kohaku's soup is clear and rich without the help of any additional seasoning. The taste of the charcoal grilled conger eel just lingers in your mouth, for a very long time.
Sashimi is of course top quality, the uni soy sauce with sesame seasoning completes the tako.
Highlight of the dinner is again Ayu fish which is grilled this time, paired with sauce made of deep fried fish bone and fish organ, and sticky rice. Such deconstruction makes you enjoy the fish to the maximum in terms and flavour and texture in great harmony.
Deep fried oyster with pepper, yuzu seasoned sauce, turnip and ginger is a successful formula. It strikes me as the classical Cantonese dish oyster in clay pot, but in much more delicate flavour for good sake.
The cold noodle has a surprising chewy and al dente texture, all embraced by clear broth with delicate umami flavour. One can open a restaurant with this noodle alone and become a hit.
A perfect dinner always ends with a fabulous dessert, which is a coconut mochi this time. What a treat. If you were as lucky as I am you can even buy some back home.
Verdict: a seat in Kohaku is definitely worthy for a dedicated trip, from any part of the world. Will strive to visit again.