While most reviews about this place were very good, there were a few negative ones mostly complaining about the taste and wait times. After a long day of walking and exploring in Kyoto, we decided to give it a shot and experience it ourselves without making a reservation in advance. There was indeed already a moderate line by the time we got there a little past 6 PM on a chilly October evening. The location was quite lively with many people passing by, so we did not feel bored too much but of course the hunger and anticipation grew stronger as time went by. After the first group of people started leaving with full stomachs and smiling faces, the line finally started moving and our hopes and spirits going up.
After about an hour and a half the wait was over and we were welcomed in. The lady sat us by the counter and handed us the menus. Having already perused it outside and knowing what we want, I tried to place the order right away driven by my impatient appetite. The lady smiled and said, not so quick. We were a bit surprised at first but then realized the order as to how things work inside here and you have to learn to wait for your turn to come. With no other option, we slowly turned our attention outwards. The gentleman (I am inclined to call him grandfather as some other reviewers do, but also feel they are still quite young at heart) is immersed in his work cutting and preparing the various kinds of sushi, almost indifferent to the outside world and guests. I can see how he might come across as grumpy or even impolite to some people. The lady on the other hand, orbits around him and the small shop doing almost everything else. I sometimes get nervous in Japan due to language barriers but she can communicate with ease in English and puts you at comfort with her kind and soft-spoken manners. I do not know about her story, but must have taken quite some effort on her part that most people don't. Looking around the shop, there are small plates and glasses of different colors and sizes stacked on the shelves, a small kettle is gently boiling on the stove, you can see chunks of different fish behind the glass in front of you. The exteriors of cupboards and walls are the opposite of fancy and pretentious; somewhat worn out and show their age but look clean, you think. People inside almost whispering not to disrupt the tranquility, however I have seen enough to know how this may not always be the case. Outside is cool and breezy, inside is warm and cozy. It is close to an almost Zen-like feeling you can come across in a place like this and is the most I can describe in a few words.
We are not sushi experts, so cannot comment too much on the quality but for us it was really good. If we were to draw a comparison, what we had in Tsukiji tasted probably somewhat better, but did not get the same emotions in there. Part of it might also be attributed to the overall unique and pervasive vibe in Kyoto. If your criteria for eating out is solely based on taste, service or price per performance, I am sure there are better (and perhaps more expensive) alternatives you can look into. If you treat it as a more culinary and cultural experience, this may well be one of the options to consider. Having read about the ikigai concept earlier, the owners of this place seem to have found it and I hope they can keep on doing this for as long as they can in good health.
